OB and Julie and I get questions all the time about oak, and what oak does to wine. Unfortunately, there is no easy or short answer, and so I am going to try to give you a little bit of information about the effect of oak. Like anything else, a little bit of information will only wet your whistle for more.
The official winemaker’s answer to the question of how oak effects wine, is that oak adds “complexity.” Well, basically that means that oak adds all kinds of flavors into the mix. Oak is a living thing, much like a grapes itself. And just like there are only a handful of grapes that you can make wine from, there are only certain types of oak that can be used when making barrels, because some of them are so porous that they leak.
When oak seedlings start, they pull smells and flavors from things in their environment, and so where the oak grows has a huge influence on what you taste in the oak. Oak barrels are made by Coopers in a Cooperage, which is a very old art form. Most coopers and winemakers will tell you that the most significant factor is the manner in which the cooper handles his oak. The cooper’s “thumbprint” — how the cooper seasons and stores the oak so it dries adequately, and how the barrel is fired — sticks out above all other factors. This thumbprint or “house style” characterizes each barrel, regardless of other variables, including forest origin.
For instance, Barrels made from American white oak were originally produced for the bourbon industry, which should come as no surprise to you. We Americans began our love affair with bourbon before we began our love affair with wine…just ask Julie. I think she is still in love. However, American oak barrels are increasingly being used by wineries, particularly given recent improvements in barrel fabrication and of course simple economics (top quality American oak barrels cost about $340 while their French counterparts cost between $750 - $1000).
American oak barrels have improved dramatically over the last ten years. In the past, only varieties with intense flavors such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel were able to stand up to the more aggressive (smoky and sweet) aromas and flavors that the American oak available at the time contributed. The reason for these dominant flavors was partly due to how the oak was coopered and seasoned or fired.
In France, there are five oak growing regions, much as there are wine growing regions, like the Rhone or the Burgundy regions. The regions (just so you can show off and demonstrate that you know the names) are Nevers (imparts a cinnamon flavor), Allier (imparts a spicy oak flavor), Troncais (mild oaky, very finished flavor), Borgogne, and Vosges (imparts a vanilla flavor). Oak from the Troncais and Vosges regions are the most in demand at this time, but that changes just like our taste for different varietals. Three quarters of the forests of France are owned by the government (Department of the Forests) which was created by Napolean II. This is an example of Napolean’s complex being a positive thing. Trees from the forests continue to be auctioned off to Cooperages and are between 110-150 years old.
In the Czech Republic, oak barrel production was originally and primarily for the beer trade because it imparts a nutty taste…again no surprise. The taste of French oak, now considered integral to the flavor of red Bordeaux, was not appreciated in Bordeaux’s traditional market in the early and mid-nineteenth century. Winemakers preferred the softer, smoother, creamier texture Hungarian oak offered their wines, perhaps because less charring of the barrels was practiced. The substitution of French oak for Baltic and Hungarian oak was prompted by political difficulties stemming the Napoleonic wars. (This is better than any history class, isn’t it?) In the year 2005 in the United States, 64% of the oak barrels used in the wine making process were made with American Oak, 26% were made with French Oak, and 9% were made with Eastern European Oak.
Currently, economics play a huge role in the choice of which type of oak to use in the winemaking craft. Smaller winemakers tend to choose the French and Eastern European oak, while the larger winemakers are gravitating toward American oak and alternative means of imparting an oaky influence including micro oxygenation, and using oak staves in their stainless steel tanks. The new trend in Chardonnay is “unoaked.” Just ask OB.
So, now you know more about wine barrels than you ever thought you would…but I thought you deserved to know. And, you know how stubborn I can be….
In Vino Veritas,
Rae Lynn Nelson-Benskin
Owner/CEO